An amazing trip back to St Helena

We had the huge pleasure of going back to St Helena from July to August this year (Aug 2024). Our first visit back to the island after four years for Emma-Jane and five years for Robin, and what a brilliant time we had over the 4 weeks we were there!

Our trip was primarily for family purposes, we fitted in quite a few island adventures during the time we had. Capturing loads of video that we’re still busy editing together to create what we think will be some special videos. We conducting research for our cookbook, trying to fit in the blanks we have. No better way than getting it directly from the source we figured.

Even after all our years away, it felt like we never left. Just about every time we went into ‘Town—what should have taken 10 mins took hours. We had to stop and chat with everyone we saw. It was wonderful! One thing that happens on St Helena, is that time seems to slow down. What you think is 10 mins could be hours. The island has a pace all its own.

While we couldn’t share everything, below are some of the highlights. We hope they offer some insights or stir up some fond memories, of how magical and unique this little emerald isle in the middle of the vast South Atlantic we call home is:

We walked to a Heart Shaped Waterfall.

At the start of the Jamestown valley, you will find the most accessible and largest waterfall on the island. Shaped like a heart, it’s appropriately named Heartshaped Waterfall. It takes about 30 mins to walk the trail leading to the waterfall along the valley hillside. It’s not a difficult walk, you just have to watch your step on the rocks.

The waterfall reveals itself at the end of the trail, where you can stand under its spray (not directly under the water tho, as it’s too dangerous), or alternately enjoy a peaceful moment from a viewing platform. The whole experience is wonderfully magical. Filling you with a sense of calm and tranquillity—surrounded by rugged cliffs and wild trees on all sides, as the invigorating water sprays you from above, you are lost in other world.

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Met the oldest living animal in the world!

Of course, we went to see Jonathan. We’ve met him many times before, but you never know when the last time it will be. So off we went to say hi and see how the old boy was doing. He’s noticeably slower these days, understandable when you’re 196 years young. However, he is still majestic and welcoming as ever. Always ready for a photo.

Can see us meeting Jonathan here 🔗

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Cooked in special locations (Shh… Videos coming soon 🤫)

One of the highlights of the trip was fulfilling a dream of cooking in some iconic locations across the island. It was fantastic! Ambition come true. We can’t say much (as we’re still editing the videos), but classic Saint dishes were definitely on the menu! When these videos are ready, we’ll let you know.

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Drunk the best coffee in the world.

We drank so much coffee! And Robin doesn’t even normally drink coffee, but there he was, drinking cup after cup. It was so good! Given the cost of St Helena coffee in the UK, which can be as high as £150 for a 250g bag, we took advantage of being on island where that same bag costs around £10. Bargain. There are a few different growers on the island, each producing coffee of exceptional quality, each with a slightly different flavour profile to each other. All smooth, with a hint of nuttiness, with none of the bitterness you get from other coffees. Dam, the coffee was incredible!

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Walked along the cliff edges.

We really enjoyed exploring the island on foot during this trip. St Helena is a walker’s paradise. There are so many varied walks across the island’s ever-changing and contrasting landscape. As this was a family holiday with our young child, we didn’t want to do any of the more challenging or potentially dangerous walks up or down steep terrain. Therefore, in addition to Heartshaped Waterfall, we spent a long Sunday lunchtime walking up to the top of Flagstaff. It’s an easy enough stroll with spectacular vistas back across Longwood, towards ‘Town, and on my god, the view across the top of the Barn—spectacular.

We also walked to Blue Point with its breathtaking panoramas across the back of the island. As one of the more accessible walks to the coast, all you see are striking cliffs and valleys seemly untouched by any human activity. It was dramatic as it was daunting with a child. One of the more memorable walking adventures we’ve had to date. Was dazzling to see this side of the island.

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Adopted a Wirebird, and named it Winnie.

Winne lives with her friends out by the Millennium Forest in Longwood. Wirebirds are only found on St Helena, and thankfully have been increasing their numbers in recent years due to the amazing work of the St Helena National Trust. Who recently started a program whereby you can adopt a Wirebird to assist with their ongoing conservation. So we did. We feel lucky and honoured. If you would like to do the same, contact them here.

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Planted an endemic tree only found on St Helena.

The St Helena National Trust is also responsible for the Millennium Forest, a program to regenerate the ancient endemic forests of the island. Consisting of endemic Gumtree and Ebony plants the forest has taken root over the years and now it is a magnificent slight. Anyway, similar to adopting a Wirebird, can pay to plant an ebony in a special spot within the forest. So we did. Likewise if you would like to do the same, can contact them here.

Or see our plant here 🔗

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Eat far too much.

We made it our mission to try every restaurant or takeaway place we could. We almost succeeded, only missing a couple of places you needed to book for. But outside of restaurants or takeaways there were get-togethers where we stuffed ourselves silly with Curries, Cheese Straws, and Tuna steaks until we were about to burst. Concerned only with eating Tuna and other fish when we cooked at home, ‘cause why wouldn’t you when surrounded by the rich Ocean. Divine, soft and chunky all at the same time—the Tuna just melted in the mouth.

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and finally… we created a really really annoying game for our 6 year old.

You can see flagstaff from just about everywhere on the island. Thus, to keep our 6-year-old entertained on drives, Robin came up with the game where the first person in the car to shout Flagstaff when you can see it—wins! That’s it. Silly fun really. However, it turned into a fun little game to play with our little one, and we all loved it by the end!

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By the end of the trip, we were in need of another holiday to recover. For such a small place, St Helena packs it in. We were reminded of the things that we took for granted when we were growing into adults on the island. The visual delight of the constantly changing vistas that you just want to go explore. Or the island's jovial community where hours can disappear as you spin yarns. Or the sense of freedom you feel with the place, no manner where you are.

With this trip, we seemed to always be in flux, fearful of wasting what precious little time we had on island. Making sure we met up with everyone we hadn’t seen in years, sharing experiences with our kid that we had as kids, and stuffing our faces as much as we could. Thank you to everyone (if you are reading this) for a memorable trip back home.

One we would recommend to you all.

Until next time,

Emma-Jane & Robin

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